How to Get Stains Out of a Mattress

35 min read. Updated October 30, 2026.

Table of Contents

• Why Mattress Stains Set In and Become Stubborn
• How to Clean a Stained Mattress in 5 Steps
• Mattress Stain Remover Chart: What to Use on Each Stain
• Best Mattress Stain Remover: Which Type to Buy
• Tools and Supplies You Will Need
• Related Reading
• Step-by-Step: Removing Fresh Mattress Stains
• Step-by-Step: Removing Set-In Mattress Stains
• How to Get Stains Out of a Mattress When Dry
• Can You Bleach a Mattress?
• How to Treat Specific Stain Types
• Stain Removal Method Comparison Table
• The Science Behind Enzyme Cleaners
• Hydrogen Peroxide Methods for Deep Stains
• Drying Your Mattress and Preventing Mould
• When Stains Mean It Is Time for a New Mattress
• Preventing Future Stains with Mattress Protectors
• Frequently Asked Questions

Why Mattress Stains Set In and Become Stubborn

Understanding why stains become difficult to remove helps you choose the right treatment method. When a liquid first contacts your mattress, it sits on the surface fabric for a brief window before being absorbed into the foam layers beneath. Once the liquid penetrates deeper, it binds with the foam's cellular structure and begins to oxidize. This oxidation process is what turns a light-coloured spill into a dark, visible stain over days and weeks.

A waterproof mattress protector we stock stops that oxidation before it starts, which is why we mention it with every mattress we sell.

Protein-based stains like blood, sweat, and urine are particularly stubborn because proteins denature and bond with fabric fibres when exposed to heat or left untreated. This is why hot water makes blood stains worse and why old sweat stains develop that familiar yellowish tinge that resists standard cleaning. The proteins have essentially cooked into the mattress fibres, forming chemical bonds that simple soap and water cannot break.

Tannin-based stains from coffee, tea, or wine present a different challenge. These compounds contain polyphenols that create visible colour changes when they react with oxygen. The longer these stains sit, the deeper the colour sets, which is why a fresh coffee spill cleans up easily while a week-old one requires serious effort.

The material of your mattress also matters. Memory foam absorbs liquids more readily than innerspring mattresses with quilted tops, and once moisture enters memory foam, it takes much longer to dry completely. This extended dampness creates an environment where mould and mildew can develop if the mattress is not dried thoroughly after cleaning.

Our musty mattress guide covers what to do if that dampness has already turned into a smell.

How to Clean a Stained Mattress in 5 Steps

A stained mattress comes clean with the same five steps for almost any stain: blot it, name it, treat it with the matching remover, rinse lightly and dry it completely. This is the order Mattress Miracle recommends for nearly every spill, and only the remover in step 3 changes from one stain to the next. Cold water is the rule all the way through, because heat sets blood, sweat and urine proteins into the fibres for good.

1. Strip the sheets and the protector, then press a clean white cloth on the stain until no more moisture lifts. Press, never rub. If the stain has dried, scrape off any crust, vacuum the spot and follow the steps for a stain that has already dried.
2. Work out what the stain is. Blood, sweat, urine and other body fluids are protein stains. Coffee, tea and wine are tannin stains. Grease, lotion and body oil are fat stains.
3. Apply the matching remover as a light mist and give it time. Dish soap and cold water need 15 to 30 minutes, 3% hydrogen peroxide 15 to 30 minutes, and an enzyme cleaner 8 to 24 hours.
4. Blot up the cleaner, mist the spot with plain cold water and blot again, so no soap or residue is left behind to attract new dirt.
5. Dry the mattress fully with a fan and an open window before the bedding goes back on. Allow 6 to 12 hours in a ventilated room, and up to 24 hours in a closed-up Canadian winter house.

The longer versions of each step are further down, for fresh stains and for set-in stains. If step 3 is where you are stuck, our guide to using an enzyme cleaner on a mattress covers how wet to keep it and how long to leave it.

Mattress Stain Remover Chart: What to Use on Each Stain

A mattress stain remover only works when it matches the stain. This chart pairs each common bed stain with the remover that breaks it down, how long to leave it and the mistake that makes it worse. Every method uses cold water and a light mist, and every one ends with a full dry. Spot-test anything with peroxide on a hidden edge for 10 minutes first, since it can lighten a dark cover.

Two stains on that chart have full guides of their own. Our urine stain remover guide deals with the smell as well as the mark, and our step-by-step vomit cleanup guide covers getting the solids off before any cleaner goes on. Period stains are blood stains and follow the blood rows; our period stain guide goes through them without fuss.

Best Mattress Stain Remover: Which Type to Buy

The best mattress stain remover is the type that matches the stain. Use an enzyme cleaner for protein stains like urine, blood, sweat and vomit. Use 3% hydrogen peroxide or an oxygen-based remover for colour left by coffee, wine or old yellowing. The brand on the bottle matters less than the ingredient list on the back. Read the label, then match it to the chart above.

Clorox's own guide to bleach types lists hydrogen peroxide and sodium percarbonate as the active ingredients in non-chlorine bleach. That is why an oxygen remover and a bottle of 3% peroxide do much the same job on colour. Skip any product with optical brighteners, which leave a fluorescent coating that makes fabric look whiter while the stain stays put. For a longer look at the household options, our breakdown of which mattress cleaners work and which make a stain worse goes through them one at a time.

The product Mattress Miracle carries for stains is the one that keeps them off the mattress in the first place. Our waterproof protectors start at $32 for a twin in the Healthguard Basic Protection mattress protector, a far smaller bill than a mattress that has soaked up a spill.

Tools and Supplies You Will Need

Before you start treating any mattress stain, gather your supplies so you can work quickly. Time is your biggest ally when dealing with stains, and stopping mid-process to search for a missing item gives the stain more time to set.

For basic cleaning:

• Clean white cloths or paper towels (avoid coloured fabrics that could transfer dye)
• Spray bottle
• Cold water
• Mild liquid dish soap
• Baking soda
• Vacuum cleaner with upholstery attachment

For stubborn and set-in stains:

• 3% hydrogen peroxide (the standard drugstore concentration)
• Enzyme-based stain remover (look for protease and amylase enzymes on the label)
• White vinegar
• Cornstarch
• Portable fan or hair dryer (cool setting only)

What to avoid: Bleach damages mattress fibres and can weaken foam. Hot water sets protein stains permanently. Excessive moisture promotes mould. Steam cleaners can push stains deeper into foam layers if not used properly. Stick with cold or lukewarm water and gentle cleaning agents for the safest results.

Step-by-Step: Removing Fresh Mattress Stains

Fresh stains are far easier to handle than old ones, so acting quickly gives you the best chance of complete removal. Follow these steps as soon as you notice a spill or stain.

Step 1: Strip the bedding. Remove all sheets, mattress protectors, and pillow cases immediately. Toss them in the washing machine on a cold water cycle to prevent stains from setting in those fabrics as well.

Step 2: Blot the stain. Press a clean white cloth or stack of paper towels firmly onto the stain. Do not rub or scrub. Rubbing pushes the liquid deeper into the mattress and spreads the stain outward. Blot repeatedly with fresh sections of cloth until no more moisture transfers onto the towel.

Step 3: Apply the cleaning solution. Mix one tablespoon of liquid dish soap with two cups of cold water in a spray bottle. Lightly mist the stained area. You want the surface damp, not soaked. Excess moisture is the enemy here.

Our baking soda cleaning guide covers the next step in more detail.

Step 4: Blot again. Using a fresh clean cloth, blot the soapy area to lift the stain. You should see the stain transferring from the mattress to the cloth. Continue blotting with clean sections until the cloth comes away clean.

Step 5: Rinse. Spray the area lightly with plain cold water to remove soap residue. Blot dry with a fresh towel.

Step 6: Apply baking soda. Sprinkle a generous layer of baking soda over the entire treated area. Baking soda absorbs remaining moisture and helps neutralize odours. Leave it for at least eight hours, ideally overnight.

Step 7: Vacuum. Use the upholstery attachment on your vacuum to thoroughly remove all baking soda. Run the vacuum over the area several times to ensure no residue remains in the fabric.

Cold-water washing also applies to the bed sheets we carry that took the spill first.

Step-by-Step: Removing Set-In Mattress Stains

Set-in stains require stronger treatments because the compounds have bonded with the mattress fibres. These methods are safe for most mattress types, but always spot-test first.

Method 1: Hydrogen Peroxide Solution

This is the most effective general-purpose method for stubborn stains. The hydrogen peroxide breaks down the chemical bonds that hold the stain in place, while the baking soda provides gentle abrasion and odour control.

Step 1: Mix the solution. In a spray bottle, combine 240 millilitres (one cup) of 3% hydrogen peroxide, two tablespoons of baking soda, and one drop of liquid dish soap. Swirl gently to combine. Do not shake vigorously, as this creates too much foam.

Step 2: Apply to the stain. Spray the solution directly onto the stain, covering it completely but not saturating the mattress. The area should be visibly damp but not dripping.

Peroxide can lighten a dark cover, which matters on some of the mattress in a box models with charcoal fabrics.

Step 3: Wait. Let the solution sit for 15 to 30 minutes. You may notice fizzing as the hydrogen peroxide reacts with organic material in the stain. This is normal and indicates the solution is working.

Step 4: Blot and dry. Blot the area with a clean cloth to absorb the solution and loosened stain material. If the stain is still visible, repeat the application and waiting period up to three times.

Step 5: Dry thoroughly. Open a window, turn on a fan, or use a hair dryer on a cool setting to speed up drying. The treated area must be completely dry before you put bedding back on.

A slatted platform bed lets air reach the underside during this drying stage.

Method 2: Enzyme Cleaner Treatment

Enzyme cleaners are specifically designed to break down protein-based stains. They contain biological enzymes that literally digest the proteins causing the stain, making them the most effective option for blood, urine, and sweat stains.

Step 1: Choose the right product. Look for enzyme cleaners that contain protease (breaks down proteins), amylase (breaks down starches), and lipase (breaks down fats). Products marketed for pet stain removal typically contain all three and work well on mattress stains.

Step 2: Apply generously. Spray or pour the enzyme cleaner directly onto the stain. Unlike other methods, enzyme cleaners need to stay wet to remain active, so apply enough to keep the area damp throughout the treatment period.

Our urine stain guide covers the enzyme method for the most common protein stain.

Step 3: Cover and wait. Place a damp cloth over the treated area to slow evaporation. Enzyme cleaners work best when given 8 to 24 hours to fully break down the stain. Check periodically and reapply if the area dries out.

Step 4: Blot and rinse. After the treatment period, blot up the enzyme solution with clean towels. Lightly spray with cold water and blot again to remove residue.

Step 5: Dry completely. Do not skip this step. Place the mattress in a well-ventilated room or near an open window. A portable fan directed at the treated area speeds drying a lot.

Two-sided flippable mattresses from our range can be flipped to the dry face while the treated side airs out.

How to Get Stains Out of a Mattress When Dry

To get a stain out of a mattress when it is dry, rehydrate it before you treat it. A dried stain has lost the water that carried it into the fabric, so a remover has nothing to move through until you add a little back. Vacuum off any crust and mist the spot with cold water. Then treat it with the matching remover from the stain chart and give it longer than you would a fresh spill.

1. Vacuum the spot with the upholstery attachment to lift dust and any dried crust.
2. Mist the stain with cold water until it is damp, not wet, and let it sit for a few minutes.
3. For a yellow, brown or body-fluid stain, apply an enzyme cleaner and cover it with plastic wrap so it stays damp for 12 to 24 hours. For a coffee, tea or wine stain, use the peroxide and baking soda paste for 2 to 4 hours.
4. Blot or vacuum up the residue, check the spot in daylight and repeat up to three times if it is lighter but still there.
5. Dry it for 6 to 12 hours with a fan before the sheets go back on.

A brown ring often shows up around a spot that was wetted and then dried slowly. To avoid one, mist a slightly wider circle than the stain and blot from the outside edge in. Then dry the area fast with a fan, as in our drying and mould prevention steps.

How to Get Old Stains Out of a Mattress

Old stains on a mattress have sat for months or years. They have oxidized and bonded with the fibres, so expect them to fade and not always to disappear. Start with the peroxide paste method further down this page. Cover the stain with 3% hydrogen peroxide, a thick layer of baking soda and one drop of dish soap, leave it 2 to 4 hours, then vacuum. Many old stains lighten after two or three rounds. Some old stains came from the body, such as sweat or urine. For those, an enzyme cleaner left damp for 12 to 24 hours can break down the oxidized protein that peroxide only lightens.

Old blood has a guide of its own: our fresh and dried blood stain guide treats the two cases separately. If an old stain still smells after three rounds, the source is in the foam below the cover. At that point the signs in when stains mean it is time for a new mattress apply.

Can You Bleach a Mattress?

No, you should not put chlorine bleach on a mattress. Chlorine bleach is sodium hypochlorite, and Clorox's own guide notes it can fade colours and weaken delicate fibres. On a mattress it does not stay on the surface. It soaks past the cover into foam and fibre layers you cannot rinse, so residue and smell can stay in the bed you sleep on. When a stain needs bleaching action, use 3% hydrogen peroxide or an oxygen-based remover instead, after a spot-test.

What to Do If Bleach Got on a Mattress

If bleach has already been spilled or sprayed on a mattress, open the windows, put on rubber gloves and blot up as much as you can with a damp cloth. Mist the spot with plain cold water and blot again two or three times to dilute what is left, then dry it fully with a fan. If the bleach hit a removable cover, take it off once rinsed and check the care label in our guide on how to wash a removable mattress cover. Do not pour vinegar, ammonia or any other cleaner on the spot to neutralize it, because bleach reacts with both. A bleached white patch on a coloured cover is permanent, and the rinsing is there to get the chemical out of the mattress.

How to Treat Specific Stain Types

Blood Stains

Blood is one of the most common and most stubborn mattress stains. The haemoglobin in blood oxidizes rapidly, changing from bright red to dark brown as it dries. The key rule with blood is simple: never use hot water. Heat causes blood proteins to coagulate and permanently bond with fabric fibres, making the stain nearly impossible to remove.

Our protector for the bed are the reason most of our customers never need this section.

For fresh blood, apply cold water immediately and blot. For dried blood, make a paste of cold water and meat tenderizer (which contains papain, a natural protease enzyme) and apply it to the stain for 30 minutes before blotting clean. Alternatively, apply 3% hydrogen peroxide directly to the stain and blot as it fizzes.

Urine Stains

Urine stains present a dual challenge: the visible discolouration and the lingering odour. Both issues stem from uric acid crystals that form as urine dries. These crystals are not water-soluble, which is why simply wiping up urine does not eliminate the smell.

Pet owners can read our cat urine guide for the stronger products that work.

For urine stains, an enzyme cleaner is your best option because enzymes break down uric acid crystals completely. Apply the enzyme cleaner, cover with plastic wrap to prevent evaporation, and leave for 12 to 24 hours. Follow up with a baking soda application to absorb any remaining odour.

White vinegar is a decent alternative if you do not have an enzyme cleaner. Mix equal parts white vinegar and cold water, spray onto the stain, and let it sit for 15 minutes. The acidity of the vinegar helps break down the uric acid, though not as thoroughly as enzyme cleaners.

Sweat and Yellowing

Yellow sweat stains develop gradually from the accumulation of body oils, salts, and proteins. By the time they become visible, they have been building up for months. The hydrogen peroxide method described above is the most effective treatment for sweat stains.

A breathable cotton sheet set we carry wicks sweat away before it reaches the mattress.

For widespread yellowing, mix 240 millilitres of hydrogen peroxide with three tablespoons of baking soda and apply the solution across the entire discoloured area. Let it sit for one to two hours, then vacuum up the dried residue. You may need to repeat this treatment two or three times to achieve noticeable improvement on older stains.

Why Is My Mattress Yellow?

A mattress turns yellow mostly from sweat and body oils that pass through the sheets and oxidize in the air over months. That is why the yellowing usually follows the shape of where you sleep. Urine, other body fluids, spilled drinks and water left to dry slowly all yellow a cover too. Sweat and oil yellowing responds to the peroxide method above. Urine and other body fluids are protein stains and do better with an enzyme cleaner and cold water only (our section on how enzyme cleaners break down protein explains why).

Yellow marks from intimate fluids are protein stains like any other. Blot them with cold water as soon as you can, then apply an enzyme cleaner and let it work for 8 to 24 hours. Heat sets them, so skip the warm setting on a hair dryer and any steam. For yellow patches that built up over years, our guide to identifying yellow stains before you treat them helps you tell sweat from urine from water damage.

Coffee and Tea Stains

Tannin stains from coffee and tea respond well to a vinegar-based treatment. Mix one tablespoon of white vinegar with one tablespoon of dish soap and two cups of cold water. Apply to the stain and blot repeatedly. The vinegar breaks down the tannin compounds while the soap lifts the colour from the fabric.

Tea stains on a mattress follow the same method with one difference: tea with milk leaves a protein stain under the brown tannin. Blot it with cold water first, use the vinegar and soap mix for the colour, then follow with an enzyme cleaner if a faint mark or a sour smell stays. A tea stain that has already dried goes through the rehydrate-first steps in the dry stains section above.

Coffee in bed is a guest-room hazard, which our guest room mattress page assumes.

For older coffee stains, apply a paste of baking soda and cold water to the stain and let it sit for 30 minutes. The mild abrasiveness of baking soda helps lift the colour that has bonded with the fabric fibres.

Red Wine Stains

Red wine contains anthocyanins, the same pigments that give berries their colour. These pigments bond quickly with fibres, so speed matters. For fresh wine spills, pour salt directly onto the stain. Salt absorbs the liquid and draws the pigment out of the fabric. After 20 minutes, brush off the salt and apply the hydrogen peroxide solution.

For set-in wine stains, combine two parts hydrogen peroxide with one part dish soap. Apply this mixture to the stain and let it sit for 20 to 30 minutes. Blot clean and repeat if needed.

Our sleep science notes covers the hygiene research behind these methods.

Stain Removal Method Comparison Table

Our guide to reading firmness labels helps you choose that fresh start deliberately.

The Science Behind Enzyme Cleaners

Our pricing walkthrough shows what a replacement costs against a $200 professional clean.

Enzyme cleaners deserve special attention because they represent the most effective approach for the toughest biological stains. Understanding how they work helps you use them properly and get the best results.

Biological enzymes are protein molecules that act as catalysts, speeding up chemical reactions without being consumed in the process. In cleaning products, different enzymes target different types of organic matter:

• Protease breaks down proteins found in blood, urine, sweat, and food stains
• Amylase breaks down starches and carbohydrates from food spills
• Lipase breaks down fats and oils from body oils and greasy food
• Cellulase breaks down plant-based fibres, helping remove grass and plant stains

The latex mattresses from our range are naturally resistant to dust mites, which is one less thing for enzymes to work on.

The critical factor with enzyme cleaners is contact time. Enzymes work slowly compared to chemical cleaners, but they work thoroughly. While a hydrogen peroxide solution might bleach a stain into invisibility in 30 minutes, an enzyme cleaner will actually digest and remove the stain-causing material over 8 to 24 hours. This means the stain is genuinely gone rather than just bleached lighter.

Temperature also affects enzyme performance. Most cleaning enzymes work best between 20 and 40 degrees Celsius. Temperatures above 60 degrees Celsius will denature the enzymes and render them inactive. This is another reason to avoid hot water when treating mattress stains.

Heat sensitivity also applies to memory foam toppers we carry, which should never be treated with hot water.

Hydrogen Peroxide Methods for Deep Stains

Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is a powerful oxidizing agent that works through a different mechanism than enzyme cleaners. When hydrogen peroxide contacts organic stain material, it releases oxygen radicals that break apart the chromophores, the molecular structures responsible for the stain's visible colour. This is why you see fizzing when hydrogen peroxide contacts a stain.

The 3% concentration sold at pharmacies and grocery stores is the right strength for mattress cleaning. Higher concentrations (such as the 10% or 30% solutions used in industrial applications) can damage mattress fabric and foam, and can cause skin burns.

The Enhanced Peroxide Method

For the toughest set-in stains, this enhanced method provides maximum cleaning power while remaining safe for most mattress fabrics.

Step 1: Vacuum the stained area thoroughly to remove any loose debris or dust.

A washable protector can be treated in the machine instead, which is the easier route.

Step 2: Apply undiluted 3% hydrogen peroxide directly to the stain using a spray bottle. Saturate the stain but avoid soaking the surrounding area.

Step 3: Immediately sprinkle a thick layer of baking soda over the wet hydrogen peroxide. The combination will begin to fizz and bubble.

Step 4: Add one drop of dish soap on top of the baking soda and gently work it into the paste with a soft-bristled brush using circular motions.

Step 5: Leave the paste on the stain for two to four hours. As it dries, it will draw the stain material out of the mattress and into the baking soda layer.

Step 6: Vacuum up all the dried residue. Inspect the area. If the stain is lighter but still visible, repeat the process. Most stains show significant improvement after two to three applications.

The foam mattresses in Brantford should be tested at a corner before any peroxide treatment.

One important caution: hydrogen peroxide can bleach coloured fabrics. If your mattress has a dark-coloured cover, test this method on an inconspicuous area first. On white or light-coloured mattress covers, bleaching is rarely a concern.

Drying Your Mattress and Preventing Mould

Proper drying is the most important step in the entire stain removal process. A mattress that remains damp after cleaning becomes a breeding ground for mould and mildew, which can pose serious health risks including respiratory irritation and allergic reactions.

After any wet cleaning treatment, follow these drying guidelines:

Maximize air circulation. Open windows in the room if weather permits. Position a portable fan to blow directly across the cleaned area. If you have a ceiling fan, run it on its highest setting.

An adjustable bed frame from our range raised at both ends lets air circulate under the mattress while it dries.

Use absorbent materials. Press dry towels into the cleaned area to absorb as much moisture as possible before air drying begins. Replace towels as they become saturated.

Allow adequate time. A cleaned mattress area typically needs 6 to 12 hours to dry fully in a well-ventilated room. In humid conditions or during Canadian winters when windows are closed, this can extend to 24 hours. Do not put bedding back on until the mattress feels completely dry to the touch at every layer you can feel.

Check for dampness. Place your hand on the cleaned area and press firmly. If you feel any coolness or dampness beneath the surface, the mattress needs more drying time.

Our bed slats explainer explains why slat spacing matters for airflow during drying.

Signs that mould has developed include a musty smell, visible dark spots (different from the original stain), and allergic symptoms like sneezing or congestion that worsen when you are in bed. If you suspect mould growth inside your mattress, professional cleaning or replacement is recommended, as surface treatments cannot reach mould that has established itself within the foam core.

Our mattress age guide covers the mould case in more depth.

When Stains Mean It Is Time for a New Mattress

Not every stain can be saved, and some stains are actually warning signs that your mattress has reached the end of its useful life. Here is how to know when cleaning is no longer the answer.

Deep penetration into foam layers. If a liquid stain has soaked through the mattress cover and into the foam core, surface cleaning will only address what you can see. The internal foam may be harbouring bacteria, mould spores, or uric acid crystals that produce ongoing odour. Once foam is contaminated internally, there is no practical way to clean it at home.

The mattresses on our Brantford floor are listed with prices if replacement is the honest answer.

Persistent odour after cleaning. If you have treated a stain multiple times and the odour returns within days, the source is deeper than your cleaning methods can reach. This is especially common with urine stains on memory foam, where the liquid can travel 5 to 10 centimetres into the foam before you even notice it on the surface.

Structural damage from moisture. Repeated liquid exposure weakens foam over time. If you notice the mattress feels softer, less supportive, or has developed permanent impressions in areas where stains have been treated multiple times, the foam integrity has been compromised.

Our notes on mattress impressions explains how to check foam integrity.

Age plus staining. If your mattress is already seven to ten years old and has accumulated significant staining, the stains are a secondary concern. The mattress has likely already lost much of its original support and comfort properties through normal wear. Cleaning the stains will not restore the support you have lost.

Allergic reactions. If you or a family member develops new allergy symptoms, particularly nighttime congestion, sneezing, or skin irritation, and the mattress has a history of liquid stains, the mattress may be harbouring dust mites, mould, or bacteria that cleaning cannot fully address.

Our fit-first mattress quiz helps you choose a replacement by sleeper rather than by panic.

Preventing Future Stains with Mattress Protectors

The most effective stain removal strategy is preventing stains from reaching your mattress in the first place. A quality mattress protector creates a waterproof barrier between your sheets and the mattress surface, catching spills, sweat, and accidents before they can soak in.

Modern mattress protectors have improved significantly from the crinkly, plastic-feeling covers of past decades. Today's protectors use thin polyurethane membranes bonded to soft fabric like cotton or Tencel, providing waterproof protection without affecting the feel or breathability of your mattress.

At Mattress Miracle, a waterproof protector in queen size runs from $43 to $216 for the Ice Silk cooling protector. Our waterproof protector range in every size lists all nine with today's prices. A protector is required for an exchange under our 60-Night Comfort Guarantee, so it guards the mattress and your options at the same time.

When choosing a mattress protector, look for these features:

• Waterproof membrane that blocks liquids while allowing air to pass through
• Hypoallergenic materials that do not trap heat or cause skin irritation
• Deep pocket design that fits snugly around mattresses up to 16 inches thick
• Machine washable construction for easy, regular cleaning
• Quiet fabric that does not crinkle or rustle when you move during sleep

A zippered mattress cover offers even more comprehensive protection than a fitted protector. Zippered covers encase the entire mattress, protecting all six sides from stains, dust mites, and allergens. They are especially recommended for allergy sufferers and households with young children.

Wash your mattress protector every two to four weeks in warm water with a gentle detergent. This prevents the buildup of body oils and sweat that can eventually seep through even waterproof barriers. Most protectors can be tumble dried on low heat, but check the care label to be sure.

Frequently Asked Questions

Call to Action

If your mattress stains are telling you it is time for a fresh start, visit Mattress Miracle at 441 1/2 West Street in Brantford. Our team can help you find a mattress that fits your body, your sleep style, and your budget. That team includes Talia, our sleep specialist, and Dorothy, who has 40+ years in mattress retail. Every mattress in our showroom comes with the option of a stain-resistant mattress protector so your new investment stays clean from day one. Call (519) 770-0001 or stop by during our store hours: Monday through Wednesday 10 to 6, Thursday and Friday 10 to 7, Saturday 10 to 5, and Sunday 12 to 4.